Another shirt

This was actually the first shirt I made from the Burda 7045. The owner-to-be was my dad, whose body shape meant that the pattern needed a few adjustments. Usually, he buys plus sized shirts that fit him around the waist, but are then too long, and too wide over the shoulders. The resulting look is less than flattering, adding volume where it is not needed. In other words, it was not an option simply to grade up the pattern.

The length, shoulder and neck was just fine in a size 60, but space was needed for the stomach. To do that I slashed the pattern from mid shoulder to the hem, and spread until the waist measure was right. Then I re-drew the arm scye and the side seam. (Oh, how quick it is to write it! I had never done anything of the kind before, so it took me ages to work out how to go about it, and then actually do it.) I didn’t have the option of making a muslin to check fit (we live far apart), so I did fret over how it would turn out.

Burda 7045

Is that right? Is that how it’s supposed to be?

IMG_4033

Nothing beats a crisp collar. Nothing.

IMG_4035

Hopefully it will take the attention away from the slightly misaligned pocket. Sigh. Checks are not very forgiving in that respect.

IMG_4036

Bias tape to finish sleeve hem.

It was alright on the day, though. Not only that, my dad was just so pleased; he even made favourable comparisons to clothes that his dad – a tailor – had long ago sewn for him. That felt rather good, have to say.

Here he is, looking dandy.

IMG_5269

‘Hey.’

Very good of the sun to play along. One of many times this late summer – and now autumn – when you couldn’t have a conversation without someone eventually saying, ‘better enjoy it, could be the last good day of the year.’ We did.

A new shirt

The promise was made back in May, but only fulfilled last week: a summer shirt. The pattern is Burda 7045, a straight-forward man’s shirt, with three variations that combine various collars, pleats and pockets.

Shirt looks nice, too.

Shirt looks nice, too.

Pretty happy with that fit, saying so myself n'all.

Pretty happy with that fit, saying so myself n’all.

I chose a standard collar (‘A’), a pocket, and pleats back and front. I added a bit of variation of my own, too. The sleeves are short, but instead of a simple folded under hem I used the cuff. It gives it a bit more ‘finished’ look, I think, more smart than casual, you might say.

Cuff detail

Cuff detail

I took his measurements (chest, waist, shoulders), and compared with the corresponding measurements taken from the pattern (a situation when it’s actually an advantage not to have seam allowances included in the pattern). Not a single adjustment needed: as if by magic, my husband fits a size 48 perfectly.

The fabric is a organic cotton denim, with a straight weave. When freshly pressed it’s wonderfully crisp, which seems to highlight the crisscross pattern created by the weave; with wear it softens and the various tones of blue come to the fore. This fabric is just so nice. (You can get the fabric from Siebenblau, Berlin, a shop selling only organic fabric.)

This is the second time I have used this pattern. I haven’t encountered any problems, at least not relating to the pattern itself (rushing, and not double checking stuff; can’t blame Burda for that). I would say that if you have not made a shirt before, do expect to read the instructions a couple of times – preferably once before you begin. The sleeve slit and placket in particular can be a bit tricky, both to do and to understand how to do. And when the instructions say baste, baste. I found it much easier to get the fabric to behave properly that way.

Very happy with how it came out, and so is my husband. Win-win.