The waiting game

My good friend Gabriele is pregnant, and with that come – among other things – certain sartorial challenges. Well, I’m here to help. We got together a couple of months ago, and after flicking through a stack of my old Burdastyle magazines we had a short list.

It came down to two models. The first was a ‘proper’ maternity model, in the form of a shirt dress.

We went with a crisp cotton shirting, airy and cool for the summer. For a men’s dress shirt it might have come across a little conservative, but this project transformed it into something fresh and smart – a good example of how a fabric can change with its application.

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We decided on a few changes, the most obvious one being short sleeves rather than long ones – and considering the heat waves we’ve had so far this summer, that turned out to be a good call.

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The other changes were done after the dress had been completed. The pattern has wide inverted box pleats at the back and broad pin tucks at the front.
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Ghost-tummy not included.

It was, at least for Gabriele, much more voluminous than it needed to be (and it was the smallest size, a 36); fine at the front, but a little too tipi-like at the back. It was no big deal to fix it. I closed the back pleats with top stitching down to the waist, and added some strings so she can nip it in as desired.
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I played around with some bias on the yoke – the stripes just made it irresistible. I also swobbed the grain line on the button stand, just to break things up a little.
Yoke, with very nearly perfectly matched stripes

Yoke, with very nearly perfectly matched stripes

Button stand. This tutorial from Burdastyle was very helpful.

This tutorial from Burdastyle was great for figuring out the button stand

And of course it has pockets. What kind of monster would I be not to make pockets? Maternity shirt dress, pocket

Ready for summer.
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Over all, I had no particular trouble with the pattern – Burda instructions can be a bit opaque so it helps if you have made a shirt before. One thing, though. The front pleats, and how they are folded in what becomes the neckline, demands a bit of concentration. The two pleats closest to the button stand have these sort of jagged peaks, which, when folded, should form the curve of the neckline.

Once I had folded the pleats, the peaks did not reach as high as they were supposed to, or curve as desired. (And I made absolutely sure that I folded them in the correct direction.) This is what I think my problem was: once you add the seam allowance to those peaks, it is very easy to distort their shape, and thus the neckline. I guess my best advice is to keep this in mind, and not be too surprised if it looks a bit of a mess once you’ve folded the pleats – I drew in the seam line so I didn’t have to worry about the uneven seam allowance, and the collar came on without any more trouble than collars usually do. If I were to do it again, I think I would simply extend the pleats beyond those peaks, draw the curve, and trim as needed.

The other dress Gabriele chose was an oversized t-shirt-style dress – not a maternity pattern at all, just a spacious, easy dress – I really, really want one, as well. (Note to self: do not mention to your mum that you want a dress you made for a pregnant friend, and not be pregnant.)

I cut a size 38, one size bigger than what Gabriele usually take.

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By the time Steffi and Max realised it was not an albatross, it was too late.

This dress was tinkered with a bit, too. The suggested fabric was a washed silk, which, as you can see in the picture, looks lovely. However, the purpose of this dress was to have something everyday and easy, and so we went with a sweat jersey. There is a bit of a theme going on with the colour, I guess. But why not? Light blue is a great colour on Gabriele – it’s a great colour full stop. Besides easy care the fabric has other advantages: the loose knit allows the skin to breathe, but has enough stand to skim the body, rather than cling.IMG_8327

The length went up and down a few times, and ended up with a flattering curve that starts above the knee at the front, and dips at the back. Gabriele also suggested an inward-going curve at the side seam, and the resulting cocoon-shape goes very well with the overall look, I think.

T-shirt dress, side view
I believe the pattern asked for a zipper, but I added a little button instead. I could have left it out: it slips over the head quite easily. It looks pretty, though.
T-shirt dress, back detail

Last thing: the sleeves were shortened a bit, and are actually just long cuffs; I tried the sleeves of the pattern, but in this fabric they ended up looking too clunky and heavy.

The pattern has possibilities of colour blocking in the form of two inserts by the shoulder/armscye area, the lower seam of which ‘hides’ a (very narrow) bust dart. It also breaks the front up a bit.
Line drawing, t-shirt dress
My jersey twin needle was hard at work throughout the project. Sweat jersey frays, so if you, like me, don’t have a serger – and feel that zig-zagging alone doesn’t quite cut it – then you can instead do many, many felled seams … I think it looks good, though: the seam allowance is turned in on itself, and once stitched down the thickness adds a bit of stand to the seam, which helps to give the dress its shape.
T-shirt dress
So, there you are. Two dresses for now, and perhaps later.

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